I put a bunch of Campagnolo parts on Ebay today. I’ve had them lying around for some time doing nothing, and I’d rather have some $$ to re-invest into by little business I have going here. I cleaned them up really nice, and took some close up photos. Some of the photos came out really nice and I wanted to share the beauty! Before I share the photos, I want to show you this short video of one of my neighbors. He didn’t see me, and I don’t know him, but I don’t think he would mind. It’s a bit ironic since I’m buffing high end Campagnolo bits, and he is hitting a bike with a hammer. I think he is trying to fix it! I’ll have to introduce myself and offer him a hand.

Now, the photos! I only included my favorites!

Campagnolo Record Pista Bottom Bracket

Campagnolo Record Pista Bottom Bracket

Campagnolo Record Bottom Bracket bolts

Campagnolo Record Bottom Bracket bolts

Campagnolo Athena headset

Campagnolo Athena headset

Campagnolo Athena headset

Campagnolo Athena headset

Campagnolo Super Record headset

Campagnolo Super Record headset

Campagnolo Super Record crankset

Campagnolo Super Record crankset

Campagnolo Crank Bolts

Campagnolo Crank Bolts

Campagnolo Super Record crankset

Campagnolo Super Record crankset

There you have it. If you want to buy any of this stuff, I have it all on Ebay where there are more photos as well. Here are the links:

Record Pista Bottom Bracket

Athena Headset

Super Record Headset

Super Record Crankset

The rebuild is finished and I have put the bike up for sale. Even though it took me hours upon hours of work to completely overhaul this bike, I’m only asking $200. Why? Because that is the price I think I can get for it. I consider the work I did on it something for myself. I appreciate bikes like this because they were meant for everyone, and built with quality materials and components. This bike should last another 18 years and beyond! I posted an an add on the local craigslist. I’m only selling this locally, so don’t bother asking me if I’ll ship it. Its a hassle for me to ship a bike unless its worth thousands of dollars.  Here are the pics:

Sekai 2400 body shot

Sekai 2400 front

Sekai 2400 Rider shot

Sekai 2400 drivetrain

Sekai 2400 bars

Sekai 2400 rear brake

Sekai 2400 rear hub

Sekai 2400 shifters

I acquired this 1981 Sekai 2400 in a trade and didn’t think much of it until I realized that not only is it just about all original parts (except the maybe the tires and tubes), the components are in very good condition including the Dia-Comp brake pads! Usually if I run across a boom 10-speed, I put on some new rubber, lube it, adjust it, wrap the bars and get it back out on the roads. This one was very intriguing to me. Not only because of those two special things I mentioned in the first sentence but the color is fantastic, and the Suntour bits are near perfect. I decided to give her the full treatment. I’ll start with a shot of the headbadge, which I find to be quite pleasing to the eye, especially on that color.

Sekai 2400 Headbadge

Headbadge

I stripped her down to the frame, minus the bottom bracket fixed cup and headset cups. No reason to pull this stuff off. They are sitting well and clean. After cleaning all the bits, I shot some photos.

Sugino Bottom Bracket

Sugino Bottom Bracket (minus fixed cup)

Sekai 2400 Headset

Headset (minus cups)

Sekai 2400 axles

Axles and Cones

Sekai 2400 Freewheel and Chain

Freewheel and Chain

This bike has a Suntour V GT Luxe rear derailer on it. I like these derailers. I’ve run across quite a few out there, and I like how they look, how they shift, and how they are designed. It’s history has shown it to be well loved among early mountain bikers. Here is what Disraeli Gears had to say about it:

“This example, with its more sculpted pulley cage plates, is a later V GT Luxe, the classic, best selling, touring model in the V Luxe series – truly a great derailleur. This particular example was manufactured in 1980 – demonstrating the popularity of the V GT Luxe well after the introduction of later, supposedly superior, but less well-loved models.”

I don’t have any memories of the late 70’s (I didn’t exist yet) so I can’t recall the Shimano vs Suntour rear derailer design wars the author eludes too, but I like the results! So much so that I took this one completely apart! Its what my friend Billy would call a “specimen”. If this thing was in any better condition it would still be in the box! Notice the swivel anchor bolt, the graceful “V” on the body, the stylish model name on the outer parallelogram arm, the separate cage for the lower pulley wheel, and the guide pulley integrated into the pulley pivot bolt. The Suntour Cyclone of around the same time is another example of many of these features. Here are some photos of the rebuild. I left the pins in place.

Suntour V GT Luxe Rear Deraillleur

Suntour V GT Luxe Rear Deraillleur in pieces

Suntour V GT Luxe Rear Deraillleur

All put back together

Suntour V GT Luxe Rear Deraillleur - Date Code

Suntour V GT Luxe Rear Deraillleur - Date Code "WH"

Suntour "V"

Gotta love the Suntour "V"

A date code “WH”, which according to Trek means this puppy was manufactured in August of 1980. This must mean it was one of the last one of these made seeing that by 1981 they moved on to ugly black lettering instead of the model name being part of the parallelogram arm. You can see the other pictures I took below. I have some new Dia-Comp gum hoods, bar tape and some tires on their way, so once I have it all put together, I’ll put up some final pictures.

Sugino Super Maxy Cranks

Sugino Super Maxy cranks. They still have the dust caps and the chainrings look new!

Super Maxy Close up

A close up of the Super Maxy

Suntour Down tube shifters

A cleaning and lubing of these Suntour DT shifters will allow them to last another 29 years!

Sekai 2400 Fork

The fork. The steerer is stamped "Tange.1.C" indicating Tange tubing from 1981.

Come back and visit to see pictures of the completed build! This bike will be for sale once it is finished. If it was my size I would keep it!

Here is another one for the Hardware Store Tools category. One of the most important pieces on a bicycles drive train is the rear derailer hanger. It seems like such a small, insignificant part of a bicycle, but it holds the power to really screw up your shifting performance. It also happens to be very susceptible to damage. A minor crash, or even just your bike tipping over can bend this little tab enough to ruin your ride. If the bend is fairly minor, it can be fixed. If it’s a major bend, you may need someone to replace the hanger, or if its integrated into the rear dropout, you may need someone to replace the dropout. Lets assume it’s a minor bend. You can either buy a tool made specifically for this trouble, or make your own. The following tool can be used to check your alignment, and make minor corrections. Major corrections should not be made with this tool. If major corrections need to be made, and its out of your judgment, see a professional.

Cost: $13.00 + 2 hours of time (this is assuming you have the tools, an extra axle, some extra nuts, and a small steel ruler.)

Making this tool requires you already to have the following tools:

-bench vise

-hacksaw, bandsaw, or something else able to make a straight cut through a piece of 1″ square mild steel stock.

-scratch awl, prick punch, and center punch

-steel ruler, or vernier calipers

-Counter sink bit (optional)

-a drill with a 23/64 drill bit for metal

-hand file, or small rotary grinder

And the following supplies:

-370mm long 1″ mild steel square section. Cut to length and file smooth

-rear axle with 4 nuts. Most axles are threaded M10x1.0 just like your derailer hanger. A long bolt of this thread will also work, but good luck finding that

-22mm spacer (or combo of two) for the inside of the steel square section

-15mm spacer for the outside of the steel section

-Small steel ruler

Design:

-In order to properly bend back the hanger, the tool must be threaded, and must have a nut on either side of the hanger. This way, the faces of hanger, and the inner threads remain properly aligned with each other. You can see this in Pic 2.

-The tool must have proper clearance from the axle nut, or quick release skewer nut in order to rotated about the wheel.

-spacers must be used on the inside of the square section in order to secure the section to the axle and prevent compression deformation of the section.

-The section must be long enough to measure the alignment 360 degrees around the rim.

Basic Assembly Instructions:

File all cuts smooth, and all holes to round.

1. Cut the 1″ steel square section to length if it has not already been done.

2. Drill a 12/64″ hole 12.5mm from the factory cut end of the section. You want this hole to be as close to the center of the face as possible. measure, mark, prick, center, counter sink, drill. Do the same to the opposite side.

3. File the holes round until the axle just barely fits through. This take a little patience. You want to be careful not to make the hole too large.

4. Assemble all your parts as shown in the photos and tighten every thing down to the section. Cut the axle to length if you have not already done so.

Basic Use Instructions:

1. Thread tool into hanger all the way. Measure from the edge of the tool to the rim as shown in Pic 2. Record the measurement.

2. Turn the tool counter clockwise by 90 degrees. Allow the tool to unscrew from the hanger. If needed, install the fourth nut on the cog side of the hanger and take another measurement. Record the measurement.

3. Repeat step 2 until you have four readings. This completes one turn of the tool, thus the tool has moved away from the wheel 1.0mm (1.0 pitch thread). Subtract 0.25mm from the second measurement, 0.5mm from the third measurement, and 0.75 from the fourth measurement. If your reasults are within 4mm of each other, then you are within accepted tolerances of rear derailer hanger alignment*.

4. If you are not within 4mm at your four measurement points, determine which way you need to bend the hanger, install the fourth nut on the cog side of the hanger, snug up the nuts against the hanger and bend the hanger into position. Repeat the steps above to confirm your repair.

*Thats what Park Tool recommends for a tolerance anyway. I try to get it as close to 0.0mm as possible while I have the tool on there.

Over on the For Sale page the Optima Dolphin recumbent I have for sale has been reduced from $2300 to $1600. Who’s gonna score this great deal?

I’ve kept myself pretty busy these days doing tune ups and builds for friends, and customers who have come to me either by my Craigslist posting, or through my wife’s job at the aquarium. Time has come to push out a little further to pick up some more business. I put together a little business card using my printer, a small logo I created, and paper my wife and I have left over from wedding invitations. The plan is to put a piece a string on the card, and then tie them to some bikes up at Monterey Peninsula College.

The first McGivern Cyclery business card

The first McGivern Cyclery business card

As a bit of incentive, I wrote “Redeem this card for $5 off a Tune Up!” on the back of a bunch of these babies. My typical price for a tune up is $35 which is already dirt cheap, so $5 off should get me a few jobs. Now we wait.

This article was fist published on Sept. 24, 2008 in my personal blog Its All One Big Adventure.

Bicycle tools are somewhat expensive. If your like me and don’t like paying for labor you can do yourself, but don’t want to buy tools that you might be able to make a lot cheaper, then you’ve come to the right spot. I have made a few tools from stuff you can buy at any decent hardware store. Just about all of these tools have been made in some form or fashion before this, so I’m not claiming anything, I just want to share my knowledge.

Headset Cup Remover: This one is easy. Take 12″ piece of 3/4″ copper tubing and cut two slits about 4″ long as on-center as you possibly can. (You can also cut just one slit, but you sacrifice having even pressure on the cup when you go to smack it out.) In other words, the slits should have the same distance between them on both sides. For cutting I use a craftsman version of a dremel tool, but a hack saw and vice may work as well. When your happy with the slits, carefully separate the two prongs. Copper has a low yield strength, so take care in separating the prongs. You want to try to bend the full length of the prong as opposed to just at the joint. At the end of the tube you want the separation to be enough so you can slide the 3/4″ uncut end into the head tube and pull the prongs into the head tube until you hear the tool “click” into place. One or two hard smacks with a hammer will pop your cups right out. The copper will not damage steel cups no matter how hard you hit it, so don’t back down. The less hits to remove the cups, the more times you’ll be able to use the tool. Copper is soft and will deform when you hit it so you might be able to get two or three uses out of one piece. If you plan on removing cups on a daily basis (or more than just a few times) buy a remover tool. Once I start removing cups on a regular basis, I’ll switch over to a real tool, but for now, that length of copper tube sitting in my shop is good enough. Here’s a photo of my latest one. Its a one slit deal.

Single Slit Homemade Headset Cup Remover

Single Slit Homemade Headset Cup Remover

Fork Crown Race Setter: A crown race must pressed or tapped down with even pressure all around it. For 1″ steel forks I use a 1″ copper sleeve and a 1″ by 24″ steel pipe. Grease the race, slide it into place and twist it while putting downward pressure. By doing this you should be able to get it started onto the crown evenly. If it didn’t happen evenly all around, start over or skip this step. Next, slide the copper sleeve onto the steertube, and then the steel tube. (A 1″ piece of steel tubing typically has an inner diameter of 1″. A 1″ steertube typically has a outer diameter of 1″ so the tool should slide right onto the steertube.) Turn the whole thing upside down, center the copper sleeve on the race, hold the fork blade and steel pipe in and tap until the pipe on the groud (or floor) until the race is fully seated. Sometimes a slam is required to fully seat the race. Here is photo of my trusty tool.

Homemade Fork Crown Race Setter

Homemade Fork Crown Race Setter

Headset Press for 1″ Headsets: This can be made using a 3/4″ stainless steel piece of all-thread, brass bushings, washers, and nuts. The bushings must be softer than steel, so brass is a good choice because it is a copper alloy, and bushings will typically come in plastic, rubber or brass. Bronze is fine too (it is also a copper alloy) so if you find bronze bushings, your good to go. The size of the bushings should be 3/4″ inner diamter, 1″ sleeve diameter, and 1-1/4″ flange diameter. A good hardware store should have this size. The press is to be constructed as shown in the photo below with the head tube and headset pieces in between the brass bushings. All headset cups are a bit different, so when setting up the press, experiment to see if the sleeve end of the bushing, or the flanged end of the bushing fits on better. More often than not, I find the flanged end applying the pressure to both the upper race and lower race to be the way to go. Assemble and slowly tighten one nut while holding the other in place.

Homemade Headset Press

Homemade Headset Press

Dropout Alignment Tool: Start with two steel eyebolts, four nuts, and four stainless steel washers. I use 3/8″ eye bolts that are about 8″ long. 3/8″ translates to about 9.5mm, so they are just a hair too big to fit into front fork ends. To fix this, I ground off as close to 0.25mm on each side as I could making flats on either side of the bolt. I recommend lining the flats up with the eyelets so that your eyelets are parallel when installed on the fork. I also ground the threads off the end of the bolts so they would not get caught on each other if they happen to overlap (this would happen in a serious case of dropout misalignment.) Rear dropouts are typically 10mm, so fit is not a problem. Just make sure you have them seated as far back as possible. Here is a photo of mine:

Homemade Dropout Alignment Tool

Homemade Dropout Alignment Tool

Other Frame Alignment Tools: I’ve also used a 2×4 and a piece of string to align rear triangles. Use Sheldon’s cold setting method.

Other Homemade Tools: I’ve heard of people making their own repair stands, and truing stands as well. I can imagine how this is done, but I have not done it. I bought both.

I find myself heading to the hardware store quite often to make tools from various things throughout the store. I’ve posted a few on my other blogs, but I’ll transfer them over to here when I have the chance.

Here is a fork vise I made that can be held in a regular old bench vise. Pretty simple to make if you have the right supplies and tools. You’ll need a front QR axle. This is where that old rusty front wheel comes in handy!

I have included Plans on the Downloads page

SDC10952

Fork Vise Secure in Bench Vise

Underside of Fork Vise

Underside of Fork Vise

Birds Eye View

Birds Eye View

Supplies

1- 2″x 2″ steel angle – you’ll need about 85mm, but this exact dimension depends on the cones and locknuts you use.

2- 9/16″x 1-3/8″ “U” Bolts with washer and nuts

1- front quick release axle with skewer

4- front axle cones with the same Outside Diameter (OD) (old pitted cones work best!)

2- front axle locknuts

2- front axle washers

Tools

Hack saw or band saw set up to cut steel

Round File to clean up drill holes

Flat file for edges and surfaces

Bench grinder (optional)

Drill with 1/4″ bit meant for steel

Scribe, center punch and counter sink to mark and line up drill holes

Cone wrenches

Box wrenches or ratchet

Tape measure, calipers, or ruler

Instructions

Disassemble the axle and reassemble putting an extra cone on each side as shown in the photos and plan. Measure the spacing of the exterior faces of the locknuts and maintain 100mm between the two surfaces while maintaining equal axle stubs on each side. Tighten all the pieces against each other on each side. You should now have a front axle with the cones forming a rounded circular groove on each side.

Put the completed axle on one flange of the steel angle. Line up the edge of the angle with one of the exterior cones exterior face. At the other exterior cone, scribe a line on the angle at the cone exterior face. This is where you’ll cut the angle. You want the four cones to make contact with the angle flange, but you do not want the locknut (which has a larger OD) to contact the flange. See the photos and plan. You’ll end up with a piece of steel about 85mm long give or take a few millimeters.

Mark the longitudinal center-line of one of the flanges. Scribe a line parallel to the center-line offset by 3mm away from the perpendicular flange. This is the line your axle will sit on. The 3mm offset is to account for the perpendicular flange. This will make more sense when you place the “U” bolt washers on. There won’t be enough room for the washers unless you do this.

Put the axle on its seat line and center it lengthwise on the angle flange. Mark the location of the two circular grooves on the angle. Scribe lines perpendicular to your axle seat line at these marks. These are drill hole center-lines. Measure the distance between the two prongs on the “U” bolts. Mark the locations of the drill holes on the drill hole center-lines making sure they are centered around the axle seat line.

Punch mark and run a countersink bit at the drill hole locations. Make sure you have at least 8mm of steel around all the holes. Drill the holes and finish all the surfaces with files.

Assemble the tool and mark the “U” bolt prongs for cutting or grinding. (Without doing this, the prongs will be too long and will interfere with putting the tool in the bench vise). Cut the prongs and finish with a file. Reassemble and tighten down the nuts.

If you don’t have cones of the same OD, then you can grind a flat on the larger ones. Don’t bother putting it together without doing this. You’ll just bend the axle when you tighten the nuts.

You’ll find the plans on the page called Downloads. Below is a partial image of the plan. My scanner isn’t big enough for big sheets.

Fork Vise Plan Image

At the beginning of July my wife Syrah and I moved to Monterey California. We moved here because Syrah got a great job. I was coming here jobless. This was my opportunity to begin something of my own. In my mind I am an engineer, but in my hands I am a mechanic and technician. I do not like working for others, and I enjoy providing service to others in need. Working on and with bicycles is my passion, and I’d like to revolve my business plan around the bicycle. The final plan is not yet done, but the beginning steps are clear. Since my arrival to Monterey I have set my garage up as a shop. A similar shop to what I had in New Orleans. This time I’m no longer in a spare bedroom. I am in a garage with a concrete floor.

Garage 9/15

I’m fixing bikes out of my garage. I have some fantastic customers already. People who I see eye to eye with. People who want to have a relationship with their bicycle mechanic. People who want good work done at a reasonable price. People who will tell their friends about my little bicycle garage world. When I’m not fixing bikes I’m looking for a location, buying parts, looking for deals on tools, making tools, working on a business plan, or studying the topic of bicyle design. I just opened a business account with my bank yesterday and named the sole proprietorship “McGivern Cyclery”. I jumped around with names for awhile, but I believe this fits best for now. Once established, I’d like to add the subtitle “Bicycle Repair, Research, Design and Testing” or something like that. The company may also break into different smaller companies to accomodate such things as material testing, but we’ll cross that bridge when the time comes.

Part of this business will be located in this website. I plan on keeping track of my business progress here on this blog. Hopefully this is a place where I can showcase my work, share my ideas, and offer my services. The idea behind the blog is to share my experiences establishing my own bicycle workshop.

As of today, the goal is to have a location by January 2010. Lots of things come with location, but I’ll save that for another time.

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