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I acquired this 1981 Sekai 2400 in a trade and didn’t think much of it until I realized that not only is it just about all original parts (except the maybe the tires and tubes), the components are in very good condition including the Dia-Comp brake pads! Usually if I run across a boom 10-speed, I put on some new rubber, lube it, adjust it, wrap the bars and get it back out on the roads. This one was very intriguing to me. Not only because of those two special things I mentioned in the first sentence but the color is fantastic, and the Suntour bits are near perfect. I decided to give her the full treatment. I’ll start with a shot of the headbadge, which I find to be quite pleasing to the eye, especially on that color.

Sekai 2400 Headbadge


I stripped her down to the frame, minus the bottom bracket fixed cup and headset cups. No reason to pull this stuff off. They are sitting well and clean. After cleaning all the bits, I shot some photos.

Sugino Bottom Bracket

Sugino Bottom Bracket (minus fixed cup)

Sekai 2400 Headset

Headset (minus cups)

Sekai 2400 axles

Axles and Cones

Sekai 2400 Freewheel and Chain

Freewheel and Chain

This bike has a Suntour V GT Luxe rear derailer on it. I like these derailers. I’ve run across quite a few out there, and I like how they look, how they shift, and how they are designed. It’s history has shown it to be well loved among early mountain bikers. Here is what Disraeli Gears had to say about it:

“This example, with its more sculpted pulley cage plates, is a later V GT Luxe, the classic, best selling, touring model in the V Luxe series – truly a great derailleur. This particular example was manufactured in 1980 – demonstrating the popularity of the V GT Luxe well after the introduction of later, supposedly superior, but less well-loved models.”

I don’t have any memories of the late 70’s (I didn’t exist yet) so I can’t recall the Shimano vs Suntour rear derailer design wars the author eludes too, but I like the results! So much so that I took this one completely apart! Its what my friend Billy would call a “specimen”. If this thing was in any better condition it would still be in the box! Notice the swivel anchor bolt, the graceful “V” on the body, the stylish model name on the outer parallelogram arm, the separate cage for the lower pulley wheel, and the guide pulley integrated into the pulley pivot bolt. The Suntour Cyclone of around the same time is another example of many of these features. Here are some photos of the rebuild. I left the pins in place.

Suntour V GT Luxe Rear Deraillleur

Suntour V GT Luxe Rear Deraillleur in pieces

Suntour V GT Luxe Rear Deraillleur

All put back together

Suntour V GT Luxe Rear Deraillleur - Date Code

Suntour V GT Luxe Rear Deraillleur - Date Code "WH"

Suntour "V"

Gotta love the Suntour "V"

A date code “WH”, which according to Trek means this puppy was manufactured in August of 1980. This must mean it was one of the last one of these made seeing that by 1981 they moved on to ugly black lettering instead of the model name being part of the parallelogram arm. You can see the other pictures I took below. I have some new Dia-Comp gum hoods, bar tape and some tires on their way, so once I have it all put together, I’ll put up some final pictures.

Sugino Super Maxy Cranks

Sugino Super Maxy cranks. They still have the dust caps and the chainrings look new!

Super Maxy Close up

A close up of the Super Maxy

Suntour Down tube shifters

A cleaning and lubing of these Suntour DT shifters will allow them to last another 29 years!

Sekai 2400 Fork

The fork. The steerer is stamped "Tange.1.C" indicating Tange tubing from 1981.

Come back and visit to see pictures of the completed build! This bike will be for sale once it is finished. If it was my size I would keep it!


Here is another one for the Hardware Store Tools category. One of the most important pieces on a bicycles drive train is the rear derailer hanger. It seems like such a small, insignificant part of a bicycle, but it holds the power to really screw up your shifting performance. It also happens to be very susceptible to damage. A minor crash, or even just your bike tipping over can bend this little tab enough to ruin your ride. If the bend is fairly minor, it can be fixed. If it’s a major bend, you may need someone to replace the hanger, or if its integrated into the rear dropout, you may need someone to replace the dropout. Lets assume it’s a minor bend. You can either buy a tool made specifically for this trouble, or make your own. The following tool can be used to check your alignment, and make minor corrections. Major corrections should not be made with this tool. If major corrections need to be made, and its out of your judgment, see a professional.

Cost: $13.00 + 2 hours of time (this is assuming you have the tools, an extra axle, some extra nuts, and a small steel ruler.)

Making this tool requires you already to have the following tools:

-bench vise

-hacksaw, bandsaw, or something else able to make a straight cut through a piece of 1″ square mild steel stock.

-scratch awl, prick punch, and center punch

-steel ruler, or vernier calipers

-Counter sink bit (optional)

-a drill with a 23/64 drill bit for metal

-hand file, or small rotary grinder

And the following supplies:

-370mm long 1″ mild steel square section. Cut to length and file smooth

-rear axle with 4 nuts. Most axles are threaded M10x1.0 just like your derailer hanger. A long bolt of this thread will also work, but good luck finding that

-22mm spacer (or combo of two) for the inside of the steel square section

-15mm spacer for the outside of the steel section

-Small steel ruler


-In order to properly bend back the hanger, the tool must be threaded, and must have a nut on either side of the hanger. This way, the faces of hanger, and the inner threads remain properly aligned with each other. You can see this in Pic 2.

-The tool must have proper clearance from the axle nut, or quick release skewer nut in order to rotated about the wheel.

-spacers must be used on the inside of the square section in order to secure the section to the axle and prevent compression deformation of the section.

-The section must be long enough to measure the alignment 360 degrees around the rim.

Basic Assembly Instructions:

File all cuts smooth, and all holes to round.

1. Cut the 1″ steel square section to length if it has not already been done.

2. Drill a 12/64″ hole 12.5mm from the factory cut end of the section. You want this hole to be as close to the center of the face as possible. measure, mark, prick, center, counter sink, drill. Do the same to the opposite side.

3. File the holes round until the axle just barely fits through. This take a little patience. You want to be careful not to make the hole too large.

4. Assemble all your parts as shown in the photos and tighten every thing down to the section. Cut the axle to length if you have not already done so.

Basic Use Instructions:

1. Thread tool into hanger all the way. Measure from the edge of the tool to the rim as shown in Pic 2. Record the measurement.

2. Turn the tool counter clockwise by 90 degrees. Allow the tool to unscrew from the hanger. If needed, install the fourth nut on the cog side of the hanger and take another measurement. Record the measurement.

3. Repeat step 2 until you have four readings. This completes one turn of the tool, thus the tool has moved away from the wheel 1.0mm (1.0 pitch thread). Subtract 0.25mm from the second measurement, 0.5mm from the third measurement, and 0.75 from the fourth measurement. If your reasults are within 4mm of each other, then you are within accepted tolerances of rear derailer hanger alignment*.

4. If you are not within 4mm at your four measurement points, determine which way you need to bend the hanger, install the fourth nut on the cog side of the hanger, snug up the nuts against the hanger and bend the hanger into position. Repeat the steps above to confirm your repair.

*Thats what Park Tool recommends for a tolerance anyway. I try to get it as close to 0.0mm as possible while I have the tool on there.

Over on the For Sale page the Optima Dolphin recumbent I have for sale has been reduced from $2300 to $1600. Who’s gonna score this great deal?

I’ve kept myself pretty busy these days doing tune ups and builds for friends, and customers who have come to me either by my Craigslist posting, or through my wife’s job at the aquarium. Time has come to push out a little further to pick up some more business. I put together a little business card using my printer, a small logo I created, and paper my wife and I have left over from wedding invitations. The plan is to put a piece a string on the card, and then tie them to some bikes up at Monterey Peninsula College.

The first McGivern Cyclery business card

The first McGivern Cyclery business card

As a bit of incentive, I wrote “Redeem this card for $5 off a Tune Up!” on the back of a bunch of these babies. My typical price for a tune up is $35 which is already dirt cheap, so $5 off should get me a few jobs. Now we wait.

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October 2009
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